Exfoliation - physical vs chemical & FAQ's
One of the most misunderstood steps in skincare…. exfoliation. That word brings so many different emotions to my little esthetician heart. You’ve read it before on pinterest or maybe your mom passed the info along “exfoliate 2-3x a week” but what does that even mean? In my experience this “rule” is referring to some type of scrubby product that is most likely causing more damage then good. I am here to entirely change the way you view exfoliating. Grab some snacks, this is going to be a long one!
WHY DO WE EXFOLIATE?
The short answer? To keep our skin healthy! Let’s first cover how it works.. Cell turnover is when our dead cells fall off and are replaced with healthy new ones underneath. When we are young our cell turnover is quick, that’s why our skin looks so smooth and soft as kids. As we age our cell turnover rate slows down significantly, meaning we hold onto those dead unwanted cells. This comes with its own set of problems, acne, texture, dull complexion, wrinkles / fine lines etc. Exfoliation is the way to speed up this process and keep our skin functioning like our younger selves, this keeps our complexion healthy and radiant.
PHYSICAL VS CHEMICAL
There is two main classifications when it comes to exfoliation, physical and chemical. Physical includes anything with a scrubby texture like beads, grains or powder. This manually takes off the dead cells but can be damaging if it is not used correctly making it my last resort when it comes to choosing the right product for your routine. Chemical is my fave, now i know that word sounds scary but trust me it’s not! Exfoliants classified as “chemical” simply include an ingredient that loosens and removes dead cells on a molecular level. Examples include Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) like glycolic, lactic, kojic, mandelic acid and BHAs like salicylic acid. Enzymatic exfoliants like papaya (papain) and pineapple (bromelain) also work the same way chemical exfoliants do so I am clumping them together for the sake of this blog! They do tend to be more gentle, less irritating and also hydrating so keep that in mind when shopping for the right product!
MY FAVES
I love chemical exfoliants because they are typically safer and target more then just removing dead cells. For example, the AHA mandelic acid is also antibacterial and targets acne while doing all the things an AHA does! Lactic acid is great for sensitive skin types who need both gentle exfoliation + hydration, glycolic targets aging skin + sun damage… you get the idea! Although there are a handful of physical exfoliants that are safe and great for the right skin types, some of them are a combo of physical + chemical thanks to their special formulation!
Chemical exfoliants I love:
Vivant mandelic acid serum - targets acne, fine lines, pigment, texture. Love this for all skin types, especially acne prone & skin of color
Image agleless cleanser - glycolic based gel tackles sun damage, fine lines, texture. Ideal for aging, dry skin (not for sensitive skin types)
Image vital c enzyme mask - fights dryness, dull complexion, texture. If you have sensitive, rosacea or dry skin this is for you but all skin types can benefit from this mask
iS Clinical warming honey cleanser - uses enzymes to safely loosen dead unwanted cells causing texture and also uses antibacterial honey to target acne while hydrating. All skin types need this in their life… dry, acne prone, aging, pigmented skin. Also use this as a mask when you have some extra time by working it in, leaving it for 60 seconds and rinse
Physical exfoliants I love:
Image iluma brightening powder - mix this guy into your cleanser or face mask. Works to brighten and even overall tone, a great addition for all skin types and gentle enough to be used daily.
Vivant mandelic exfoliating cleanser - all the benefits of mandelic acid with the added bonus of small grains to buff away lingering cells. Emulsify this in your hands prior to working gently into the skin, can be used daily on all skin types except rosacea or very sensitive skin.
Image ageless resurfacing mask - a combo of lactic acid + small grains work to resurface the skin. Love this most for an aging, dull complexion.
Bio Therapeutics cleansing brush - made of silicone to gently work in your cleanser but also buff away dead cells. Soft enough for all skin types to use daily.
Exfoliating treatments that I love:
Chemical peels of course! Read the previous blog for all the things you need to know, this is a more advanced treatment, not one to just dive into without proper prep.
Refresh facial uses dermaplaning (physical) and enzymes (chemical) to resurface the skin. Great first time facial for most people.
Fire + Ice facial from iS Clinical uses a glycolic based mask to resurface the skin like a peel without any of the downtime. Another great one for all skin types that can use a more advanced treatment.
Dermaplaning is a great way to remove dead skin & peach fuzz and can be added to any facial for a boost of physical exfoliation!
FAQs
How often should I exfoliate? This totally depends on your skin type, your product formulation and your monthly treatments. Definitely reach out to your skincare professional to see what they say about your skins specific needs. They know best!
Can I over exfoliate? Absolutely! This is actually quite common, your skin will appear red, irritated, have a “raw” feeling or randomly start producing excess oil out of nowhere. This is easy to fix just by cutting back on the frequency or using a different product all together. Your skincare professional will be able to help you decide whats best for you.
Should I be exfoliating? Yes — no matter your skin type, goals or age you should definitely be exfoliating to promote healthy new cell growth and remove layers of dead skin that can be problematic.
Remember to always speak with your professional before diving into a new regime or product so you can be sure you’re doing what’s best for your skins health. We are here to help! Read more about the services and products i listed off by exploring the shop and the service menu page. Comment below if I left your question out or contact me through IG, FB or the inquiry form on the “CONTACT” page. I love chatting with you!
xx holly